Tom Gehring

Post 19 – June 19, 2016

The Camino de Santiago,
     the del Norte/Primitivo route.
Spain: From Irun to Santiago de Compostela, 500 miles.
Post 19; June 19, 2016, Sunday.
Day Five: Markina-Xemein to Gernika, 25 Km, supposedly.

 3:00 a.m.
 I’m not the only one that couldn’t sleep at this Albergue de Pergrinos in the convento de los Padres Camelitas. There are two other guys up, and a woman, Kinga, from Belgium, a psychiatrist. We’re drinking tea. We are heading to Gernika today. Yes, the Gernika. The Picasso painting at the Prado museum is forever plastered in my memory. I hear the screams and terror from the citizens as they city of Gernika succumbs to saturation bombing at the hands of the German Condor Legion. Basically, as I understand it, Franco enlisted the help of his friend Hitler (and also Mussolini) to assist him in his civil war with his own people. Really? Franco basically invited Hitler to bomb the city of Gernika to aid him in his civil war in the Basque country. This was in 1937. The city was completely destroyed. But that wasn’t enough, the Germans returned in their modern warplanes to strafe the fleeing townspeople. So . . . we get to trek to the modern city of Gernika, because of course, there’s nothing left of the old.

 Tempie Teagarden here. I got up early too. You know me, the everyday woman, because, everyday of my life I had to deal with my depression. Did I say everyday? Yesterday on the path, there was a sign. A prominent sign. And it was about a war that had been fought somewhere in the Olatz area, and I looked out over the beautiful farmland and saw the cows and goats, and saw how peaceful it was. But I glared at the sign and saw all the details and pictures of the war that had been fought, and it reminded me of why I used to get so depressed. Or, at least one of the reasons. Wars, battles, killing, and death. And . . . we’re supposed to carry on. And, I have no real way of knowing what to do next sometimes. And today, we’re going to Gernika. . . .

 Later in the day. We pretty much did a straight trek to Monasterio De Zenarruza, about 8Km. We arrived in time for mass (it is Sunday). Carlos and Leo stayed for the mass, I stayed for part of it. There were six priests doing the mass, in Spanish, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but their Gregorian singing was inspired. I starting trekking again, met up with Juliet from Australia and Kinga from Belgium, and we trekked to Munitibar where we stopped for a Camino lunch. I bought: three tortillos (bascially potatos and cheese), three coffees, and one lemon drink, 8.3 Euros (about $9.00). So inexpensive here. Lunch was great, the town is really cute, somewhat typical little Spanish town, and there was a political event going on. So, Carlos, Leo, me, Juliet and Kinga trekked the rest of the way to Gernika and we made it here at about 4:00 p.m. Same story, we have to find beds, find food, wash our clothes, and get out heads together.

 We got beds at Albergue de Peregrinos, the first one in our guidebook. A little more expensive than normal. 18 Euro, but we all got beds, I think in the same room. So, that’s it. Wash our clothes, take showers, wander around and eat, and go to bed.
. . .

Apple watch log for the day:
 Active cal: 1543
 Total steps: 35,026
 Miles: 19.27